Comment: I saw this book being recommended and I got curious about it and that is why I read it now, at last.
It's 1976 and Jimmy Campbell is about to participate in an international surf competition, hoping to win it and to improve his life, especially after having returned from Vietnam with no prospects. He wasn't counting on Danny Moore, a young guy who has won many competitions and who has the reputation of being arrogant and a know-it-all. However, Danny doesn't win this time and Jimmy has the impression he might have let him win, actually, but when they finally have a conversation, something seems to change between them. Could it be that these two, seemingly lost souls, have finally found the person that complements them?
I became curious about this book for the romance, because to be fair, I don't know much about surf nor do I think I'd really want to, although I can appreciate the idea of it and why so many people cherish and live for it.
Thus, to me, the fact these characters are "professional surfers", even though they still have to have other jobs to really make a living, is really only a way to an interesting setting and to see them in an environment that includes a lot of water, beaches and sand stuff. It sounds great but since I'm not a fan of going to the beach, this is enough for things to seem different from my usual preferences. There is a lot of surf elements but the most specific details passed me by, in fact.
The story is set in 1976 but apart from a few references, I really can't say the historical setting was that obvious. Perhaps the beach scenes and the majorly focused situations on the subject of surfing made me feel things are quite concentrated without much room to compare with other elements one would link with an historical vibe. For instance, the descriptions of places, everyday routines and social aspects could be seen in any other period from the 1970s on, which doesn't have to be bad, but...if the point was to stress out the historical stage and how that would have affected the guys' relationship, I conclude this wasn't really necessary, considering their backgrounds. I guess, it suited the Vietnam allusion.
The true interest of this book is the romance, I think, and in a way it might be because it's seen as forbidden. Being gay in the 1970s wasn't as now, but these two manage to find themselves in a very solid relationship, for all purposes, as soon as their feelings become acknowledged. Until this happens, I think the tension was done quite well and I was always wondering when would it happen that they kissed or that they could tell each other that they saw them as more than just a competitor and then a friend.
I also think the author has a very poetic way of presenting things, of wording certain scenes and descriptions and the mix of all of this made for a very emotional reading. Also, with such a theme at such a time period, it's not surprising that both Jimmy and Danny didn't have a good past when it comes to how their families dealt with things, mostly Danny's. Added to the fact they had to deal with depression and some self harm thoughts, this could have been quite sad to read, but I think the author found some balance later on, once they get at the same point, feelings wise.
To me, apart from some plot choices, what didn't work as easily was how long it took to develop certain things in detriment of others. Some situations dragged, while others happened in a way that seemed rushed and this made me feel the heartfelt /poignant moments lost some momentum here and there. It was also a little disappointing that we didn't have more about the Oahu island and native communities, considering the setting was mostly there.











